crotch help

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Permalink Reply by Carolyn de Leeuw on May 9, 2008 at 9:19pm

I have a great book that talks about how to deal with all kinds of fitting issues, including this one. It is called "Fitting Finesse" by Nancy Zieman. Fabulous book with wonderful, easy to understand instructions. I don't know how easy it is to find, but if you can't let me know and I will look up that particular problem.

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Permalink Reply by Belinda on May 14, 2008 at 4:53pm

Have you trimmed the fabric and clipped the curves. Has this technique eluded you. What you do is trim the fabric between the front a nd back notches. You want to be sure you have stitched that part of the crotch seam with 2 rows of stitching very close together. I use close tiny stitches also. Then after trimming to 1/4 inch seam allowance, make tiny clips almost to the stitching line. This releases the curve so it has flex and can move with you.

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Permalink Reply by Sally E. Walker (SEW!) on June 18, 2008 at 2:09pm

One way is to take a pair of pants that fit the way you like. Lay them out together, inside out and fold along the crotch seam line to try to find the differences. Usually you can tell how to alter your pattern for a better fit. This worked for me when I had bought coulottes that didn't fit right in the crotch. By comparing them with ones that did fit right, I was easily able to make alterations, and they fit fine.

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Permalink Reply by Stormee Bryant on June 23, 2008 at 3:52pm

All these suggestions are great and I would like to add to them by saying, try a muslin first. You can work out all the issues with that and transfer the changes to your pattern also the muslin can be used over and over. I always start out with a muslin (sample) even with my customers, it saves me a lot of pain. And muslin is cheap.

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Permalink Reply by sue in ne on January 18, 2009 at 1:30pm

Hi, just joined recently and am finding my way around. the Bunch in the crotch can mean several things. the crotch seam is too short.t. You may need to extend the crotch and add to the Inner leg seam ( front and back). A muslin ( el cheapo fabric) would help you figure this out.

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Permalink Reply by sewable on February 5, 2009 at 9:30pm

I like the suggestion of trimming and clipping the crotch curve close to the reinforced stitching. I would like to suggest also that the final seam should be the crotch seam. This entails sewing the two legs together through the crotch. (If the leg seams are stitched last this makes the seam allowance of the crotch sit the wrong way - very uncomfortable and bulky.)

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Permalink Reply by Brenda Bernard on February 9, 2009 at 1:20pm

Hello Brinda, I can only suggest that you make a muslin of the pattern you want to work with. Fit the muslin on your body, basting it works nice-(no pins to prick you or fall out while you are working on it). Trim the muslin; disassemble the muslin pieces by removing the basting. You will now have a permanent pattern that fits "YOUR" body(until your body changes). Good luck.

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Permalink Reply by Mary on March 12, 2009 at 9:05am

Hi Brinda,
I have always had a difficult time finding pants that fit. I always had to alter ready made pants. I have tried many patterns and every one has to be fitted differently. I finally found a pair of pants that fit me perfectly and took them apart and made a pattern from them. I now have perfectly fitted pants. No more shopping for days trying to find a pair that fits.
Miss MaryB

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Permalink Reply by sue in ne on May 29, 2009 at 1:13am

Where and how it bunches will indicate what the problem is. It could be any number of measures. Do consider taking a class on making slacks. I could NEVER get them to fit then I took a class. now i know what the problem is and can adjust.

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Permalink Reply by Katriina Alanko on June 1, 2009 at 9:38am

Have you tried this: Measure your crotch length by passing a tape measure from your waist at center front, under the crotch, to the waist at the center back. Compare this measurement to the pattern by standing your tape measure on edge and measuring the stitching line on the pattern front crotch plus the back crotch line. Don't forget to skip over the seam allowances. If this doesn't fix the problem, then you must determine if the crotch length is too long in the front only. Hope this helps.

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Permalink Reply by Kathleen on June 25, 2009 at 12:02pm

One rule of thumb for fitting. Usually the wrinkles actually "point" to the trouble spot. It is hard to help you without "seeing" what the problem looks like.

Thigh adjustments are often the problem.

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