Hemming sheer and slippery fabrics

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Permalink Reply by Susan on June 25, 2009 at 10:24am

Sewing Sheer Fabrics

When you think of soft, pretty, feminine fashion for everyday as well as special occasions, sheer fabrics almost always come to mind. Sheer fabrics like chiffon, organza and voile have also become popular year-round choices for home decorating, from window valances and bed canopies to elegant table dressings and chair drapes. While sheers may require a bit more attention than most fabrics, yet you can successfully create the light, airy looks you love by following a few easy guidelines:

Layout:

Use a single or double thickness layout with right sides together.
Use a "without nap" layout.

A cutting surface with a contrasting color will help you get the best view of your sheer.
Soft sheers will slip easily off grain, especially when cut on the bias. Use pushpins to anchor the fabric to a padded cutting surface. Insert pins along the selvage and across the cut edge of the crosswise grain.
Pin only within the seam allowances, especially on crisp sheers. Extra fine pins are suitable on crisp sheers, but may easily fall out of soft sheers. Insert pins at more frequent intervals than usual.

Cutting:

Use scissors with serrated blades or a rotary cutter to reduce fabric slippage as you cut.
Sewing:

Use a standard universal point needle in a light to medium weight size, such as size 70/10 H to 80/12 H (Schmetz) or size 10 to 12 (Singer)

Stitch with fine cotton-covered polyester thread, or try lingerie thread.

Set your machine for a slightly smaller stitch length than usual – about 10 to 15 stitches per inch.

Increasing the pressure on the presser foot may be helpful with some lightweight sheers.

Use a small, single-hole throat plate when sewing straight seams. This prevents toe fabric from being "swallowed" into the machine. A narrow straight stitch foot and / or flat-bottom presser foot may also be helpful.

If you do not have these machine attachments, consider moving the needle to the far left to provide support on three sides of the fabric.

If needed, substitute organza (for soft sheers) or organdy (for crisp sheers) in place of a commercial interfacing.
Seam options for sheers include a double-stitched seam and French seam .

Courtesy of Simplicity.com.

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Permalink Reply by suzanne on June 25, 2009 at 10:32am

I've used strips of wax paper under the sheer fabric to feed it though to stitch...works great!

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Permalink Reply by Forest on June 25, 2009 at 10:36am

Ellen I have used liquid stabilizer on sheer fabrics. The other thing I have used is plain paper, I ran out of my regular stabilizer one time and it was the only thing I had. Works great and little clean up as the needle perfs the paper for easy removal. The liquid give it some body and is washable, of course if your fabric is not washable you can't use it.

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Permalink Reply by Alice Reed on June 25, 2009 at 10:52am

I have a serger and it is the best machine for sheer fabrics because you can do a perfect rolled hem. If you plan to use these types of fabric it is definately worth the investment to purchase a serger. I did about 4 years ago and I use it so much on all my sewing that I don't know what I ever did without it. The only thing I don't use it for is my quilting. If you don't feel it is worth your investment now you should check with your local sewing machine store and see if they may have someone there who can do this type of hemming service for you at a reasonable price. I would also check your dry cleaning stores who sometimes offer alteration & hemming services. If it is for a one time thing maybe that would be your best bet.

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Permalink Reply by Erika on June 25, 2009 at 12:12pm

You can quilt with your serger, too! The 4 thread overlock is a perfect 1/4".Try it!

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Permalink Reply by Barbara Bateman on June 25, 2009 at 2:24pm

I'm new to SWN and have had my own home sewing/alterations business for almost 5 years now. I have never heard of quilting with a serger! Please explain. Thanks.

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Permalink Reply by Michelle Jadaa on June 25, 2009 at 11:01am

Perhaps a spray on stabiliser or starch that can be washed out would be better?

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Permalink Reply by Jeanette on June 25, 2009 at 11:14am

I do Claire shaeffers's baby hem for sheers, it takes some time but looks great,

figure out where you want your hem line to be, stitch just inside the fold line,
press up the hem right on your stitching,
sew a second row of stitching just up from the fold, (2-3mm is good)
trim excess away very close to the 2nd line of stitching
fold up once more, very narrow, 2-3mm, and stitch down, this gives the hem some body, is very neat looks nice,

I find hemmer feet do not do well with sheers especially if you are not perfectly on grain,

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Permalink Reply by HeyJudee on June 25, 2009 at 11:15am

I've heard they sell water soluable stabilizer. Maybe that would work.

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Permalink Reply by Kathleen on June 25, 2009 at 11:58am

Have you changed you sewing machine needle? You might try a very fine/thin (60 gauge) "Sharp" needle for this project and a fine thread. I have been known to run a straight stitch about 1/8" from the cut edge (sometimes it helps to cut a little longer length, run the stitching line, then cut to 1/8" inch) before using my rolled him pressure foot. Try this technique on a rounded edge sample and see if you have any success.

Are you having problems starting the stitching, or while you are actually doing the hemming?

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Permalink Reply by Erika on June 25, 2009 at 12:28pm

hi Ellen: Stabilizing would work, but another option may be more tidy if you don't have a serger: Do a small straight stitch just inside the raw edge of your fabric. If you have a straight stitch needle plate, put it on to help prevent the fabric from slipping down under the plate. The stitch will stabilize the fabric, and then you will be able to use your rolled hem foot. Good luck! Erika

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Permalink Reply by sawsan on June 25, 2009 at 2:30pm

Ellen

I use zig zag stitch not straight to end the slebery or hemming the sheer and fine cloth, and i use the newspaper by buting it under the sheer

good luck

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