Replies to This Post

Permalink Reply by Bridget Snitchler on February 10, 2010 at 11:10am

First, make sure both shoulders of pattern are in the same direction. Then you can layout the pieces as needed.
I am from the "old school" of dress-making and frugal layout. My mother lived through the 1930's when every scrap was precious and she taught me, not so much to build up a stash but to make use of every precious inch would squeeze patterns onto fabric right side up and upside down. Sometime ago the industry threw me for a loop by changing the language used to, and sequences to accomplish the same thing. I cannot be the one to answer your question about that particular Simplicity pattern. Doesn't Simplicity have a toll-free "Help line" listed on the pattern or envelope? Or call the store where you bought the pattern for them to check the Pattern Book for such a number.

Permalink Reply by Karen Orsua on February 10, 2010 at 11:42am

Thank you, I have a call into Simplicity now. I am from the same "old school" and have just started sewing again after many years.

Permalink Reply by Bridget Snitchler on February 21, 2010 at 5:57pm

Did you get an answer from Simplicity?....just wondering......

Permalink Reply by Cheryl Keith on April 28, 2010 at 2:39pm

I believe the substantive difference between a layout that is "with nap" and one that is "without nap" is very simple. Fabrics "with nap" look different when viewed from opposite ends of the length of yardage. Therefore, it is important when working with such fabrics that the upper end of each pattern piece face the same end of the length of yardage. Hence, inexperienced sewers probably need the pattern company to diagram how to proceed with the various widths of fabric in order to get all their pieces properly cut out of the yardage specified on the pattern. "With nap" layouts generally require MORE yardage. Where they do NOT, there is no reason to have a "without nap" layout because generally fabric that doesn't have "nap" will look the same no matter which way pattern pieces are laid out. (Experienced sewers will approach their projects from this fundamental knowledge of napped and non-napped fabric, choosing the appropriate layout based on how they want the finished garment to look in the given fabric. In contrast, inexperienced sewers start from the layout choices and try to work backwards by imposing a "layout" on a fabric.) Now, if the non-napped fabric has a printed/woven PATTERN, the garrment will probably look better if the pieces are cut so that the upper ends are all facing the same end of the yardage length (unless the piece is supposed to be cut on the bias) so having the novice use the NAP layout with non-nap fabric can be a good idea (from the pattern company's perspective, such an approach is good customer service for all sewers). Hence, not providing a "without nap" layout isn't really a problem. Just use the "with nap" layout with ANY fabric and everything will be just fine.