I used the existing lining pieces as patterns, well pressed. Despite all the slipperiness this wasn't too bad, even working out the darts. I used the original flannel underlining pieces as patterns for the new underlining, but that did not work so well. They really didn't match up well with the lining, and in the end I dumped them in my fabric stash and re-ordered more flannel.
It's bright red, and makes me feel warmer just looking at it. This time I used the coat lining pieces as the pattern for the underlining, so they matched up. I did find it a struggle trying to work with such a slippery fabric and keep the two lined up. Also there was a lot of fraying going on.
So after I put the darts in the tops of the sleeves and the front of the coat, I decided to try something different. I sprayed all the pieces with temporary adhesive, then overlocked them, joining the lining and underlining together and eliminating the fraying in one go. I worried about it, especially if it was okay to press it with the adhesive in there, but it was fine. Now I had perfectly matching pattern pieces and I could move onto jacket assembly.
I chose a microtex needle and fitted my walking foot. I'd like to point out I didn't know either of these things existed a year ago, and only bought the spray adhesive for the course I went on in November 2012. You live and learn!
One of the curious features I found in this coat was that the sleeves were cut in two pieces, the main sleeve and an insert at the back. I had to assume this was to give more fullness in the back for elbow movement. The main sleeve piece was cut normally, but the inset was cut longer, with a bends towards the centre. After I struggled with my first failed attempt, I decided to use a row of gathering stitches to help the ease. Once it was pinned, tacked and sewn it fit well, and here they are pressed and ready.
Here you can see I have attached the fronts to the back at the shoulders. Then I paused for thought. I have never made a coat, but I have set sleeves before, and I know I could either a) stitch the side seams on the coat and set the complete sleeve in, or b) attach the open sleeve to the coat then stitch the sides and the sleeve in one seam. I decided on b) as I felt it would be easier to handle.
I did one long seam for the sides and sleeve, and now the new lining is ready to attach to the coat! Here it is sitting on top of the reversed coat. Shiny isn't it. Feels nice too. The sleeves look baggy, but they need to be tucked in under the cuffs. I'm so glad I treated myself to a dressmaker's dummy for this. The other half found this vintage dress-form one on e-bay without a stand. He said it was better quality as it has all metal fittings, and made me a stand. Isn't he lovely! He's taking an interest as he bought me the coat!
So next I start fitting the lining to the coat.
To be continued.....