I made another top out of pink cotton lycra knit. This time, I added 1/2 inch to each side of the sleeve to make it bigger. It fits much better now. I should have reread my review, since I didn't add anymore ease and I didn't make it any longer. I am happy with this t-shirt.
This time I made it out of blue & brown polyester stretch knit (moleskin). I lowered the dart 1/2 inch. Tweak this; Tweak that; will it ever fit? The skirt in the picture to the left is Burda Plus (magazine) Spring 2004 "pegged straight skirt for knits".
Note: I like to use clear elastic serged into the shoulder seam to stabilize the shoulders on t-shirts/knits.
Night 1: I decided to change the dart on this top to a French dart. I’ve been intrigued by this dart for a while. I tried on another t-shirt (Burda Plus Spring 2004 - 406A), but I wasn’t happy with the fit of that t-shirt. That made it impossible to evaluate the French dart effect. This next t-shirt will be from some leftover blue slinky from a dress.
Night2: Slinky is a pain!
I cut the french dart version out of the blue slinky. I’ve worked with it before, but what a big hassle. Slippery and super stretchy, so you have to be very, very careful when you are laying it out. Everything has to be supported. My slinky has ribs on it; I don’t know if that’s typical of slinky knit. The ribs to make it easier to cut on grain, assuming it doesn’t slip. I use pattern weights and a rotary cutter, and I rough cut around the pattern first.
It should be a very comfortable top, tho.
Night 3:I really like Kwik Sew 2565with a full bust alteration (FBA) and bigger sleeves. A scoop or v-neck neckline would probably look better on me than the crew or jewel neckline, but right now I’m very happy with the t-shirt.
So, do I just leave it alone? No; I’m intrigued by french darts. While this alteration won’t help with shaping over the breasts like the side seam dart from the FBA, I think the french dart will help to pull in some of the fabric over my upper abdomen. I made a t-shirt from Burda Plus magazinewith a french dart. It didn’t come out well, but the problems were numerous: too big in the shoulders, neckline had facing, neckline funneled, too long for me, and I didn’t move the french dart over when I did the FBA, so it doesn’t point to my breasts.
Do I give up? No. I decided to move the dart on KS 2565 to a french dart. That part was easy. Now, comes the “what was I thinking?” moment. I picked a blue 100% polyester slinky knit to make the t-shirt out of. A french dart is curved, and it’s @#$%ing hard to sew it in slinky! While I was very gently picking out a badly sewn dart, I started to think that a slinky t-shirt doesn’t need a dart, even on me. So that’s 2 things that I label “what was I thinking?”
Night 4: It's ready for coverstitching.
I finished this one, too. I used my well fitting (after alteration) Kwik Sew 2565. I have to add 6 inches to accomodate my breasts, but I’d like to take some of that out under them because I have a relatively flat stomach. Part of my quandry is that I’ve got full, high hips and a big, protruding butt. So, not surprisingly, I’m a larger size on the bottom. I could just add at the side seams, and I do. That works for the high, full hip. I’m thinking of adding a back seam to accomodate the big butt.
However, I’m pleased with both versions of my t-shirt, so I may not make any changes at all. I appreciate perfect fit, but the reality of the matter is that I have very limited sewing time (don’t we all?)
And Another T-shirt
I worked a little on the latest version of this top, serged the sleeves on. The neckband is pinned to the neck and ready to be serged. The fabric is a rayon-lycra double knit that I found at Joann’s in the value fabric section. I think it was $1.98 a yard, and it’s very nice fabric, so soft, great recovery. It sold out almost immediately. It makes me wonder how closely Joann’s tracks their sales. They had this 100% cotton aubergine doubleknit one fall, and it lasted in the clearance section for over a year. The weirdest part was that they had new bolts of it in the knits for the regular price and bolts of it in the $1/yard section. Get a clue!