Sew, What's New?

Curating sewing and quilting talent, techniques, and tutorials, since 1997.

Sewing A Neat No Bulk Flared Hem

By Marian Lewis
When sewing a flared skirt, do you have a problem with a too much bulk in the hem? Here is the answer for a smooth finish.

  • Face a circular or flared skirt hem with bias.
  • Cut a 5-6 inch wide bias strip of organza or light weight lining fabric long enough to fit the lower edge of the skirt.
  • Piece the strip on the straight of grain of the fabric to create the length you need.
  • Mark the desired hemline on the skirt with chalk or basting thread.
  • For medium flared skirts, trim off the lower edge 1-1/2 inches below the marked line.
  • For circular flares, trim off 1 inch below the marked line.
  • Fold the organza/lining fabric strip in half lengthwise with right sides out.
  • Baste the two bias edges of the strip together.
  • Slightly stretching the raw edges of the bias, stitch it to the outside of the skirt at the lower edge with raw edges meeting. Do not stretch the hem
  • Join the ends of the bias at one side seam of the skirt.
  • Press the seam toward the bias.
  • Turn up the hem on the marked line and baste along the lower fold edge.
  • With the skirt wrong side up, press the bias lightly and gently shape the bias strip to fit inside the skirt.
  • Pin in place.
  • Slip stitch the upper fold of the bias to the inside of the skirt. Look how nice and neat it is!
  • If you are hemming a straight edge, there is no need to stretch the bias. This is a great technique to use when you hem pleated garments or any heavy fabric to help lessen the bulk and create a nice finished look. Try it! It just makes sense! ©2009 Marian Lewis - All Rights Reserved - 1st Step To Sewing Success

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