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How to 'TRUE UP' Your Sewing Pattern - Tutorial

A tutorial and fashion sewing demonstration on how to true up sewing pattern pieces. If you make your own clothes, this technique is a must for that clean, professional finish.

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Comment by Bonnie on September 20, 2011 at 3:11pm

 I have to agree with Mariposa; if you cut off that little piece that extends past the leg seam as it was folded, you will indeed shorten the crotch by about an inch. The way I was taught was to 'fill in' the 'open' space between the crotch point and the knee line of the pattern. You are actually adding a little width to the inner thigh but that can be pared down if necessary when you stitch the pants together.

    Anytime you make this type of adjustment to length back and/or front, you must check the angle of the seams, both inner seam and outer seam because if they are not the same, you're going to have pant legs that twist or hang funny. You can't just true up in spots; it's all or nothing. I've found shoulder, leg seams and skirt side seams are the main ones that can be out of whack on commercial patterns.

Comment by Kathleen on August 21, 2011 at 9:55pm
Full screen viewing shows this to be a Butterick Pattern.  I think the intent was not the alteration, but just the true up part after an alteration.  How I true up a pattern, in my world, has lots to do with the measurements of the individual who will wear the garment.  I find a long hard edge measuring device serves me well.
Comment by Mariposa Cydwel on August 21, 2011 at 10:12am

Well, while I realize the video maker meant well, her directions for altering leg length at the crotch level would end up shortening the back crotch--disastrous.  All sewing videos are not equal!



Comment by Linda LaMona on August 21, 2011 at 7:57am
This is probably a Palmer/Pletsch pattern has they provide helpful adjusting lines on many of their patterns.  This is truly a guess on my part as to who the pattern is from.
Comment by Phyllis on August 19, 2011 at 11:13pm
I agree with Kathleen, the lines represent the crotch line for each different size. They are not adjustment lines.
Comment by Kathleen on August 19, 2011 at 12:57pm
That is a crotch line to assist with crotch fit, but I don't believe it is a true shorten/lengthen line for leg length.
Comment by Mariposa Cydwel on August 19, 2011 at 9:51am

I wonder what pattern she was using.  I have never seen a pattern with adjustment lines at the crotch point.  Susan, tell us more!



Comment by Mary-Anne Watson on August 19, 2011 at 8:33am
Thanks so much Susan! I can't wait to try this out. I have been so 'gun shy' of adjusting my patterns that I would either make and adjust when I was completed with the outfit or just not make something at all.

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